New solutions in processes of preparation and dyeing of polyester in optimal economic and ecological loads

[M. G. Kodrić]

[14], 164 listova

Biografija autora sa slikom: list 164. Bibliografija: list. 146-158.

Materials and chemical technologies

This PhD dissertation is a complex study of contemporary and up-to-date policies, procedures, theoretical postulates, and experimental examinations related to the modification and dyeing of synthetic textiles. First of all, these are activities related to creating conditions for easier, more economical and efficient, and from the ecological point of view, more acceptable dyeing of polyester fibers. The proposed innovative pretreatment or modification of the surface of polyester fibers in the form of knitting, allows dyeing under normal conditions of temperature and pressure, without carriers or with eco carriers. The treatment, which precedes the process of dyeing, converts the morphology of the fiber surface, which results in a lower mass and lower thickness of the knitted fabric, better sorption properties, capillarity, and water absorption. Certain advanced dyeing procedures of modified polyester knitwear show better results than dyeing, according to the fabric recipes at high temperatures (120 C) or with a commercial carrier. Modification of the polyester fabric is carried out with alkaline − aqueous and alkaline − alcoholic solutions as well as pure higher alcohols, always with the use of ultrasound. Alkaline processing of knitwear in an aqueous or alcoholic environment, with the use of ultrasound, leads to changes in the surface structure of polyester fibers, while solvent processing mainly causes swelling and makes the fibers structure more permeable for molecules of a disperse dye during the process of dyeing. The combination of potassium−hydroxide and octanol demonstrated extremely positive effects on knitwear. Dyeing with ultrasound increases the exhaustion of dye by the modified knitted fabric and it depends on the contact time, the initial dye concentration, and the presence of the ultrasound itself. Knitwear color fastness (to light, wear, washing, seawater, water, water drops) is comparable to color fastness after classical, industrial dyeing. An economic analysis of polyester dyeing with new procedures reveals the following: - higher dye exhaustion means a smaller amount of waste dye, easier and cheaper wastewater treatment; - half the amount of dispersant saves money and lowers the costs of wastewater treatment; - the omission of a commercial carrier means saving money and lowering costs for wastewater treatment; - the omission of the acid saves money and lowers purification costs. New solutions for dyeing knitwear have the capacity to reduce water, energy consumption and improve production efficiency with significant potential for cleaner textile production in smaller manufacturing companies.

polyester fiber, modification, ultrasound, disperse dye, dyeing, CIELab, ecology

poliestarsko vlakno, modifikacija, ultrazvuk, disperzna boja, bojenje, CIELab, ekologija

677.027:677.494.674(043.3)

T 470

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